IN THE WORLD OF MEXICAN FOOD, ROBERTO’S TACO SHOP IS AN AMERICAN DREAM

In the mid 1940’s, Roberto Robledo crossed the border from rural San Luis Potosi as a young man searching for a better life, starting out in the Bracero program. Saving up some money, Robledo eventually immigrated here a couple of decades later with his family, and wife Dolores opened up a tortilleria in San Ysidro, California. As a side hustle, she also sold bean and cheese burritos with either green or red chile. It was from those modest beginnings in 1964 that would become Roberto’s Taco Shops, now an institution of fast food Mexican restaurants that has become the gold standard of the industry.

The Robledo’s started out with five walk-up or drive through restaurants in San Diego county, operated by the couple and their 13 children. Each shop usually had a sign with a Mexican sombrero logo, and a few would display a colorful stripped roof. But what created a steady stream of loyal customers was the simple menu of tasty favorites always prepared with fresh ingredients. Originally, folks could choose between six combination plates, or a la carte items such as four types of burritos or tacos, including the signature rolled tacos with guacamole and cheese that Dolores reportedly developed in her kitchen. The reputation spread and the chain currently has 20 restaurants in California, plus 60 more throughout the southwest. What’s amazing is that nearly every shop has at least one extended family member or trusted friend involved in the operations, even though the name has sometimes been changed to Hilbertos, Alberto’s or Berto’s.

“A lot of people came here from the same part of Mexico my parents are from,” explained Reynaldo Robledo, the 12th son who grew up working in the kitchen. “That’s why the recipes remain consistent.”

As the franchise has expanded, so has the menu, of course. Roberto’s and its affiliates currently serve as many as 22 variety meals plus a few other items including savory fish tacos and another Roberto’s creation, the California burrito.

“I won’t take credit for that invention,” laughs Reynaldo, 57, one of the managing partners who oversees operations in Nevada. “A couple of my nephews did.

“Whoever heard of a carne asada burrito with french fries inside?” he continued. “But I admit it is one of our best sellers!”

Even though Mr. Robledo and his wife have now passed, it’s clear that their surviving children are true to sticking with traditional family cuisine. Sure they might bend a bit with the times, but it’s rare. So if you need some side dishes to complement your Christmas posada, Roberto’s can come to the rescue. This is real Mexican food, my friends. Not Taco Bell.

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Esteban "Steve" Randel is a veteran journalist specializing in current events, sports, politics and Hispanic cuisine. He is the former publisher of "The Latin Athlete" and a longtime activist in the SoCal Hispanic community.

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