OUR PICKS ON THE TOP FIVE MEXICAN RESTAURANTS WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI

It’s unfortunate that we lost so many establishments in our service industry due to the pandemic, especially family owned restaurants that couldn’t hang on financially. But finally, things have loosened up to the point where some longtime spots have rebounded, and many more eateries have sprouted to the delight of the dining public.

As a “semi-foodie” and grandson of a career hotel chef, the restaurant scene always captures my attention. So when Yelp, the social networking platform, recently released their top 100 places to dine in 2023, I was eager to check it out. You see, I occasionally do reviews for this site because it usually covers a wide range of ethnic cuisine. But to my surprise, only a handful of places on the list were recognized for excellence in the Latino category, and Mexican fare was limited to a couple of food trucks. Please understand that I don’t have a problem with those establishments, since my family operates such a business in Rio Tijuana called Chancho Libre, and they serve up some of the best carnitas in the entire world.

My point however, is that Mexican restaurants were vastly under represented in Yelp’s new list. So I decided to publish my own top five spots west of the Mississippi River, all which I have sampled myself or a trusted colleague. No pizzerias or sushi bars. Just authentic Mexican food featuring entrees from different regions. Hopefully one of these restaurants is located in your city, but I’m sure many of our readers will have their own opinions. And your comments are more than welcome. I might add that all the mentioned spots are full service, dine in establishments with a complete bar.

Cocina Madrigal, Phoenix, Az

This gem in south Phoenix isn’t much to look at from the outside, but don’t be fooled. While the house slogan is “Tacos and Tequila,” the specialties include everything from Oaxaca-style shrimp and crispy salmon to beef tenderloin steak in a pomegranate marinade. Love enchiladas like I do? Then try the beef birria or barbacoa green enchiladas made with authentic New Mexico Hatch green chile sauce. And there is a huge variety of margaritas too. Arrive early even on weekday nights because it gets crowded with locals, perhaps a restaurant’s best endorsement.

La Tertulia, Tulsa, Ok

This place is unique because while in the Tex-Mex category (I suppose), it offers up traditional New Mexico cuisine. Kick off your dining pleasure with a Hatch chile martini. You’ll only need one before diving into some black bean and jalapeƱo soup. Or maybe move on to a main course like the deluxe combination plate, which includes a regional version of carne adovada, an enchilada, tamale, chile relleno and a taco. Or if you want to splurge, try the wood fired rib eye with rellenos included and dressed with a blanket of cheese. This place is amazing.

Ernesto’s, San Antonio, Tx

I love this city, and the River Walk is a “must see” attraction. It’s fine to enjoy a couple of drinks or lunch and soak in the ambience. But for a terrific Mexican dinner at a much better price, you’ll need to travel into town and experience Ernesto’s. One of the specialties here is seafood, and the menu is extensive. Oysters, crab, scallops and stuffed shrimp are prepared with Mexican flair. But there is plenty of traditional favorites like flautas de pollo, enchiladas de Ernesto (a vegan’s dream) and steak Monterrey, an 8 oz beef tenderloin smothered in Ernesto’s famous salsa. Elegant without being fancy with exceptional service and great bar selections.

Mirate, Los Angeles, Ca

There are so many great Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles, because the city is primarily Latino. Unfortunately, there is a wide gap between neighborhood eateries and the swank Hollywood spots. Mirate is in the latter category, but the atmosphere, service and food is so consistent we had to add it to our list. This place has a hip, club type feel, but there’s nothing stopping you from having an amazing intimate dinner, and prepare to be pampered. They do tequila and mezcal here and you can join the tasting party or be seated and enjoy your first cocktail on the house. The tab can add up here, but don’t let it ruin your evening. Start with an appetizer to share like the tostados especiales. You can’t go wrong with Baja style specialties from the sea, like scallop tlayuda, or go turf with the lamb barbacoa flautas. And don’t be afraid to “slum it” with a taco combo plate, which can be custom created to your liking.

Sunset Cantina, San Francisco, Ca

The reason I enjoy this place is because a variety of traditional Mexican fare is served with excellent presentation and service. The attractive dining area is decorated with greenery and art work, plus the food is delicious. So what is there not to love? And for a city like San Francisco, the prices are extremely reasonable, especially the taco plates of different varieties. Mexican street food is the theme here along with an exceptional bar and wine selection. Probably my favorite spot on the west coast because anything you might crave is on the menu, and never disappoints.

While the above establishments are my standout picks, there’s a couple of additional spots on my list that deserve a mention if you happen to be in those particular areas. Here we go…

La Neta, Las Vegas

This Summerlin spot is pricey, but worth the splurge for the ritzy surroundings, food, bar and service. Vegas club-style atmosphere can get a bit loud, so avoid weekends if that’s not your thing. But the menu is unique and the drinks are incredible. The short rib and lobster enchiladas are crazy good. The mojo shrimp and the churrasco (skirt steak combo) are also exceptional. A second restaurant just opened in Dallas, Texas and I plan to check it out when I’m in that city in a couple of weeks.

La Pasadita Inn, Denver

Colorado has a rapidly increasing Mexican population and hence, so have a multitude of excellent restaurants specializing in this type of cuisine. But I love my traditional Northern Mexico entrees and like to have a couple of drinks to warm up my appetite. So La Pasadita is my go to place in the Rockies. As the name would suggest, it’s small and feels like home. You can fill your belly on just the preliminary round like the quesadilla supreme, but split that with your dining partner to save room for what’s next. At this place, salsa verde is king, You’ll love the chili rellenos, tamales and the house steak ranchero. This place never disappoints, unless you’re looking for something rare and exotic.

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Esteban "Steve" Randel is a veteran journalist specializing in current events, sports, politics and Hispanic cuisine. He is the former publisher of "The Latin Athlete" and a longtime activist in the SoCal Hispanic community.

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